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Every Form of Fish at Tsukiji Fish Market

January 20, 2010

We’ve explored the narrow corridors of the Tsukiji Fish Market a couple of times this week in smaller groups because too many of us at once would be intrusive.  The market is fascinating with its covered grid of fish sellers, the buzz of delivery jitneys, the stacks of Styrofoam storage boxes and, of course, all kinds of fish split, sawed, cleaned, laid out or packed in ice.

This is the largest fish market in the world, and there we were, dodging deliveries and gawking at the tubs of creatures formerly found in the ocean.  If this is one day’s haul collected at one land-based location, just how many fish are left swimming in the seas? Enough, I hope, to keep feeding us.

The market does some feeding. Adjoining the actual selling stalls are the sushi shops where fish and rice combine into something special, evident by the line-up of local folks waiting for their sushi breakfast.

Cooking sushi rice.

We must have snapped about one picture per fish in the market, which may have been more than we needed. But for most of us, this was likely a last chance to scout out the world of marine merchandizing.

What’s it like for the legions of people who work in the dank but surprisingly fresh-smelling stalls of fish-selling every morning? We saw great faces and patient people. We noted their tolerance for us.  And we found lots of smiling, joking workers at what must have been the end of another work day as they packed their remaining fish for shuttle trips to various fish retailers. It was morning for us, but perhaps not for them.

Tomorrow, when we’re no longer there, lurking and clicking cameras, they will be back again with new boatloads to slice and sell, and with a few more curious foreigners scattered among them.

The market lured us inside.

Alex, Sarah and Nick study a fishy scene.

Experts used big tools and motorized saws to trim the fish that arrived hard-frozen.

Ready for retailers: This group was going to a new market.

Rubber boots rule: The market had a damp and cozy look all its own much in contrast to the gleaming ultra-new architecture only a block or so from this place.

Mixed visions: Near the fish market, a centuries-old black pine poses against Tokyo's signature office towers. We saw it all Wednesday, including from a look-out atop the Dentsu corporate tower at left. Others spent time schooling in some excellent museums.

In warmish weather this week, a few plum-tree blossoms peeked out at Hama-rikyu Gardens. Sadie found them.

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